Thursday 16 February 2012

NZ: Te Anau to Milford Sound to Mossburn


January 1, 2012

We fell asleep quite early on New Year's Eve, but around 9pm we were woken up by the park ranger.  Ryan had insisted that we could pay in the morning because no one would be checking, so he was the one who had to get up and pay the ranger.  After that we had a great night sleep and didn't get up until almost 9am.

We started our drive to Milford Sound, but quickly realized that in our food crisis the night before we had forgotten to get gas.  We only had 1/3 of a tank left.  The road to Milford Sound is one way in and out, and doesn't have any towns or connecting roads, so we made the reckless decision to continue on and hope that Milford Sound had a gas station.  We knew if we turned around we wouldn't backtrack again, so we would miss out on Milford Sound completely. 

One stop along the way was Mirror Lakes.


While we were there (probably 80km from Milford Sound) we saw a sign saying that there was no gas station in Milford Sound, so yet again we had to make a decision.  The car gage estimated that we could make it, but just to be sure we emptied the fuel from our stove and our jerry can into the tank (much to the amusement of onlookers).


For the rest of the trip there we cringed every time there was an uphill stretch or a slow car in front of us.


Despite our lack of confidence, we decided to stop at The Chasm.  It would appear I didn't actually take any pictures of it though.  I guess I was preoccupied with this:

I swear, he asks me to take these pictures.
Anyways, it wasn't that exciting except that I backed into a little girl by accident with my butt and got the WORST glare I've ever been given.  Also, Ryan took this opportunity to inform me that because he is a well-paid, working professional, he raises my social status.  Supposedly this is confirmed by the fact that if it were up to me we would be living in a van and travelling around Australia (Ryan: "You're welcome").  Hah!  Who's the one who tells him if his shirt is inside out?  Enough said.

Other than the stunning scenery, the last attraction on our way to Milford Sound was the tunnel through a mountain.  We should have recorded how long it was, but my guess is over two kilometres, and it's one way only.  There is a 15 minute wait while the other cars go through, and during that time we watched people get out of their cars to play in the snow on the side of the road.


Eventually we reached Milford Sound.  The only thing I can compare it to was our experience in Skagway, Alaska; the scenery was beautiful but there were only cruise ships, a tourist building, and hundreds of annoying tourists.  Needless to say we basically just used the bathrooms and left.  I'm sure the cruises were nice, but we had already been on an intimate kayak trip through the fiords and had no desire to ruin that memory.


We still hadn't had lunch, so we decided to stop next to a nice waterfall and have a picnic.


We both really wanted to get closer to the waterfall, so we walked a little ways up the side of a mountain to get to it.



My underwater camera paid for itself that day.  We took a few quick snap photo sequences (think action heroes in Germany), ending up with this little gem.  I think you can fill in the before and after, knowing us.


We both agreed that our waterfall picnic was for sure the highlight of the day, but also in the running for the highlight of the trip.  The water was freezing cold, but it was an amazing place.  I'm not sure how many park rules we were violating, but we prefer not to dwell on that.


The rest of the drive back to Te Anau was tense, since we still weren't sure if we had enough gas to make it.  Long story short, we did make it but based on our calculations at the gas station we only had 4 litres of gas left in the tank!  Phew!  Crisis averted!

We continued half an hour further to the Mossburn Country Park, which was our campsite for the night.  It also had a kitchen and showers, but more interestingly it also had lots of random animals wandering around (think peacocks, chickens, alpacas, etc.).  It still had some rustic charm, and best of all there were no flies!  We toasted to an excellent day and a happy New Year (wine: Sauvignon Blanc, Stonleigh, Marlborough, 2011 - yum!)


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